You know I've been surfing when my room is a disaster for days on end... clothes all over the floor, bed not made, and my board bag with board still in the middle of the room.
Now as for today...
There was no mistake that it was EPIC.
Carlos, two of his friends, and I went to an undisclosed spot with 5,000 of our closest friends within earshot.
Caught some incredible waves but mostly suffered the consecutive six foot plus slightly walled beach break.
We SCORED.
Off to dreamland.zzzz
