Wow, this is a beautiful photo. I surfed Beacons with my good friend Tom Laveuf who lives in Encinitas. We paddled out around 12 and lasted a few hours before our hands and feet were frozen. I caught about ten waves soon after going out. I remember one particularly because it was a crisp left, over my head, and pretty fast. I didn't get barreled but it was a fast down-the-line. It felt incredible to stall for a second to feel the power and grace of a bigger wave than I am used to.
Not sure if I already mentioned this, but during Christmas break, I have improved substantially. No longer am I scared of steep drops and my wave count is well over 20 in the last few sessions. Yesterday I surfed 71 with all my neighbors and caught at least 30 waves. I lost count after a while. This has been one of my huge goals. It has taken me a good 6-8 months to truly enjoy the orange board (5'8" fish). At the beginning, I didn't enjoy it for whatever reason, I don't know. But a year later, I am a stronger paddler with more confidence. Feels good.
Progression feels unbelievable.
