Thursday, June 9, 2011
June Doom
Yesterday "thrash-sesh" was wild and I still have sand in my ears.
Surfed an upper jetty at extreme low tide and the rip was so strong I could hardly walk through the water.
There weren't too many people out surfing, but I had a great time getting smashed into the sand by four-to-five foot barrels.
I was a little concerned that I would break my favorite board before tomorrow night's show!
It's nice having "consistent" swell.
Enjoy your day today and smile with the June Doom.