Was on my way home from San Diego .. it was sprinkling rain & SD county didn't look all that great. Met up with my friend Tom & we went to Uppers. Probably the best day I've ever had there. Felt good to ride good waves. Need to go there more often. We had a great time & didn't want to leave after 4 hours. BUT, my leash broke and my board went flying to shore. Luckily someone caught it before it went crashing into the rocks. On my way in, I proceeded to get 10 million cuts on my feet from the reef. Blood all over. I wanted to paddle back out so bad but my feet were aching. Didn't have shoes on the way home so inevitably had to walk back barefoot with the cuts.
Totally worth the sesh.
STOKED.
