Santa Cruz is an interesting town. You can tell it's very "local" and for the most part that's a really good thing. I slept really close to the Lane last night and you could hear the kids screaming on the roller coaster ride down by the pier until 11 at least. Haha it kinda scared me at first. I woke up this morning with frost on my car and it was chilly out!!! Dan was calling me to surf out front back at home--I guess there's a new South.
Drove down to check out the Lane and there were already 5-6 guys out at 5:30. I guess that is what I mean by localized. They were all in 4/3 fullsuits I'm sure with booties and most of them had hoods and gloves. Haha I couldn't help think to myself that we have it so good down south to be able to trunk it during the summer months. And then we complain that water in the mid 50's is cold!!!
I would probably would live here but honestly, life would be different if you grew up here in comparison to importing. After a while (just like any place) you would get used to the water and air temperatures. Again, we are so freaking spoiled with these 70 degree seas. I remember about 2 years ago when i was deciding where I would end up that i really wanted to live here. Such a crazy thought to recall that. This is technically the spot where i learned to surf...believe it or not. Ha and I can't believe it has been only 2 years!!! And to be honest, I didn't know how to surf, what a board felt like, or how to read waves. Hahaha. At this moment in time, its hard to believe the past, but it must be real. Almost feels like a past life now. I guess I'll go with those intensions.
So how many people do you know that have done as many things as i have in such a short period of time????? I learned to surf, shape, glass and whatever else in two fucking years. Coming up here has made me feel pretty accomplished in what I have achieved so far in life. It's what I've always wanted and what I was made for.
This trip has been much needed and I can't wait to see Krista today!!! I'm off to the inland... To Placerville. My old stomping grounds.
