Friday, January 15, 2010
swellolichious
hello my octopus friend!
sounds like you have a nice weekend going for you!! hope you have fun!
thanks for the goal, im impressed you scored 2! I have no idea how to play soccer... ha. Here's my trade: I scored 5 incredible waves today. wanna hear about them? well, the first, as promised, was for you !! it was just coming off high tide and the size was building (stoked!) so i saw this one coming on the horizon and im like.. yeah, thats mine, watch out boys! so I paddled hard and knew I was on (it was head high/OH)... so i dropped in so smoothly, came out the bottom, turned on my single, and down the line and even pulling on the wave to slow down!! i was like 'F$(@ yeah!" that one was for you, one of the best waves of the day!!
ha sorry i get so excited while writing about surfing. :)
i hope this email brings great joy and a smile to your face.