Ohhhh.

THE SINGLE LIFE from rustyintl on Vimeo.

PL Surf.

Sunday was my first time surfing Point Loma.  What an adventure, where do I begin?

We launched the boat around 4 PM and headed out to find some hidden surf spots not accessible by land.  As we came around the corner, waves began breaking everywhere!!  Super stoked.  Time to surf.  The only bad thing was that it was high tide.  :(


Af dropped me off as close to the waves as possible then drove the boat out a way to avoid the 4-6 foot rolling waves.  Two guys were already surfing but left shortly after I arrived.
It was spooky.

The water was dark and the kelp was thick.
It felt like a different world.


After riding a mid-sized one, I was caught on the inside during a sizable set and kept hoping I wouldn't be flung onto the rocks. Dive, dive, dive. Finally I was back outside. 



After a couple more waves, I was over the kelp leaching onto my leash. I had a whistle so that Afran would know I wanted to be picked up.   Back to the boat.

We drove out to the main kelp so I could change and he could fish.  When we were ready to move to another location to fish, the boat wouldn't start.  Dead in the water.  Luckily we weren't still in the surf zone otherwise worse things could have happened.  Slight panic. We called Vessel Assist to tow us back to the landing.  A wire connecting the engine and the battery was corroded.  You would have never known unless you were really looking to find the frail wire. Thankfully by the grace of God and the help of Reggie, the Vessel Assist captain, we arrived back at the landing.

What a wild day.

da Fair!

What at triiiiip.  We went to the DelMar Fair yesterday & it was wild.  Couldn't believe the amount of people there of all sizes, shapes and colors.  Rode the Ferris Wheel, ate caramel apples and indian tacos. Mmmm it was delicious!

KelpyKelp

Went fishing in the LJ kelp today and had lots of fun!
I didn't catch anything but I did get to fly a kite 300 meters in the air with a fishing rod. HA!

And saw a dolphin show with like 200 dolphins. They were so cool. 

Live

Life changes are happening. 
Time to surf & fish more. 
Enjoy all of the precious moments.


Some words to live by:
"There is great reward for those who charge hard for the life they want to live."

LNF -- check them out

Found myself entertained this afternoon by this little clan of Last Name First?
Super rad.  Check out all their videos here: 

http://lastnamefirst.tv/




LNF Episode 2: Wizards of Oz from Lastnamefirst.tv on Vimeo.



LNF: Lowers Raid! from Lastnamefirst.tv on Vimeo.

Family Portraits: The Orange

((1 of 4))
<3
Orange Board.
xo

Surrrfz Up Dude

Yesterday was a great surf day, I could hardly get out of the water.
It was windy early in the morning & I figured there wouldn't be any good waves.

Around mid-morning, I notice the wind died down & when I looked at the waves, it was glassy!
Whaaaat?  Stoked.  I couldn't get my wettie on fast enough.  I paddled out but unbeknownst to me, I was getting sucked out by an extreme current.  I kept paddling my little ass off waiting for a huge tsunami wave to hit me on the head so I could get back to shore.  Finally, caught a wave in and walked north.
I walked north and I paddled out at RJs only to find a bunch of friends.  I was stoked.  The waves kept getting better and better.  Caught a bunch of fun, long, lefts. The water is warming up.

I love South Swells.
Its funny how when we have waves, we forget about when we don't have waves. But when its flat, all we can think about is when will some waves arrive?

Here's to Thursday.  Go surf.  Just not by me. Haha ;)

Enjoy this video, it reminds me of my parents.

June Gloom again

 

June Gloom!!
Not again this year!
Driving up Newport Blvd, you can see the line of gloom 
The wind can die down anytime too.
But some souths are on their way.... so watch out!!

Photoshoot

On Saturday night, we set up the studio for some professional family portraits...  Stay tuned for those.

In the mean time, hope you are surviving the chilly weather.  Go get some Chili from Mothers Market.

Thank You.

Thank you to everyone who supported me last night.
It was a great success and I was super stoked to meet new people and make more friends.

TONIGHT!!

Come out to Shaper Studios in San Diego to see my boards and the Nike 6.0 all girls Leave a Message surf film.  :)