from now to the end of time.

Consumerism has overtaken us all. We truly cannot control it, nor have we been able to for the last hundreds of years. Monetary wealth is held by the richest of rich buying billion dollar houses and yachts that they will hardly use yet most everyone strives to buy that newer tv or car. Get over yourself! There are so many things we take for granted... and I am sick of it! At this moment in time, it would be hard for me to get up and run... but it would be possible.

Here's what you could do. Find a place. Or maybe roll out a map of the world, take a dart and throw it somewhere. Where does it land? Chances are it lands on a third world country. Tahiti, Bali, Peru, Costa Rica, somewhere in Africa? Look at all those possibilities and recall the waves you've seen in magazines only touched by a few locals, some tourists over the years and the occasional group of pros or hardcore surfers chasing swell. Perfect. Next. Sell your house. Quit your job. Pack up a suitcase of clothes you already have, give away your belongings-- there are plenty of people in the USA who need it more than you do. For what worth do they have if they sit idol in a garage? Nothing. You and your materialistic ways have looted a mountain of irrelevant junk over the years. Pack a couple surfboards up, some tools, grab your suitcase, and hold on to your dreams. Let's do this!

Arrive locale. Chances are they will treat you like royalty. Offer to teach English lessons in exchange for food. Find a little hut, hang up your hammock, and proceed to live your life without those worthless plastic items. Do this. With the money you recieved from selling your house and/ or business, why not set up shop in the locale of your choice. You're not in this for business, so don't get the idea that you need a CNC or anything besides blocks of foam imported from the nearest civilized area. Here you go: ask a trusted friend of family member to send you a couple blocks of foam every few months... Use the local trees to create stringers. Make your blanks. Shape the board. Glass. Finish. Then give them away for free to the local people. You're changing lives. They have nothing. You have everything. Skill. Money. Talent. Love. Generocity. They are just people who work for the daily wage of putting dinner on the table for their family. Teach the kids English. Therefore, maybe someday they will be able to go to school or college one day and possibly make a change to this terrible consumeristic world we live in because their roots are firmly planted in a society that doesn't revolve around the next pair of shoes.

Live your life this way. Surely, it will be a blessing because you are doing this to serve others. To make others happy. You'll have empty, perfect waves... for the rest of your life.

Believe.

Don't Talk Crap about Girls in the Lineup

Really, now? I'm out surfing at Newport river jetties and I was coming up this wave when a guy was paddling in to it. I was like 4 feet away from him. So when he comes back out to the line up, he starts talking shit about me to another dude. Seriously? I'm a girl. I don't take every wave cause I'm not a wave hog. So what if I'm not a perfect surfer. Another dude was to my right and had no problem sharing the wave with me. Gah Newport... what the hell is up with you?

Oh yeah, its Newport Beach. HA.

just stop. it turns people off from surfing.

Where I've been this summer

WHERE I’VE BEEN THIS SUMMER.


Dude, I think I've been to almost all the states in the west this summer. So here I go, I'll tell ya.

Nebraska, Iowa, Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, Arizona, California, Washington, Texas, North Dakota, Minnesota, Oregon, Wyoming, Nevada, Montana, ... I think I did super GOOD!

just wanted to show you...

beauty!
caldor road.

People in the World

people in the world (thanks casey)

At this moment there are 6,470,818,671 people in the world. Some are running scared. Some are coming home. Some tell lies to make it through the day. Others are just now facing the truth. Some are evil men, at war with good. And some are good, struggling with evil. Six billion people in the world. Six billion souls.

And sometimes --

all you need is one

Lifetimes.

"You know, there are so many people that walk into my life and make contact. Yet they walk out eventually by choice or by chance."

So how do you make the right impression.

Live by this:

"Be the one people remember for the rest of their life."

Yes. Exactly.

I AM

I am strong. I am brave. I am selfless. I am willing.

I am passionate. I am Devoted. I am Loyal.

I can love, and I am trying to believe.

I know that at times I am weak.

I can be afraid. I can be selfish.

I can lock myself inside of me but I am alive and changing.

I am alive and living on this journey.

I am fighting for love.

I am an explorer. I am a dreamer.

If anyone needs anything from me, I will be here for you.

I need to know because my friends are worth dying for.